also, having the spacing blocks between, so one blow-out won't affect the subsuquent firing tube...safety safety safety...
also, having the spacing blocks between, so one blow-out won't affect the subsuquent firing tube...safety safety safety...
-2 cents
Yeah, that too.
Btw. had some down time at work tonite and took camjoe's design and modified it a bit to make 3 and 5 angle racks. figured out easy measurements to locate the slots for a couple of different spacings between the racks. Just curious to know how close together you guys would put them. Kinda liking the look of 2" between the outer most surfaces of the side rails.
PGI & NFA Member
Just light it already!!
You know what they say, Smoke and Idiots like high places.
OK, someone, somewhere, posted a link to a drillbit that would drive in the #4 eye bolts that this uses, I have searched ofr about an hour now and can't find it, so, does anyone have any idea where I can find a drill bit that will drive these in? I am not looking forward to hand-driving 120 of those suckers....
Last edited by Bastar; May 12th, 2010 at 03:10 AM.
Member Northern Lights Pyro Club
Video for the May 22rd Coney Island Demo are being posted now
MAFF Spring 2010 Videos Can Be Found Here with several more to go up soon!
OK, someone, somewhere, posted a link to a drillbit that would drive in the #4 eye bolts that this uses, I have searched ofr about an hour now and can't find it, so, does anyone have any idea where I can find a drill bit that will drive these in? I am not looking forward to hand-driving 120 of those suckers....
I used something called Gator Grip once. didnt work too bad.
Brokeneck
Cool, got it, also found this eventually...
http://toolmonger.com/2008/03/26/a-better-hook-driver/
Member Northern Lights Pyro Club
Video for the May 22rd Coney Island Demo are being posted now
MAFF Spring 2010 Videos Can Be Found Here with several more to go up soon!
PGI & NFA Member
Just light it already!!
You know what they say, Smoke and Idiots like high places.
iirc the local sears hardware store has a bunch of different sizes of these.
Could you please email me the plans on your rack at afixwing@yahoo.com. Thanks
Could someone repost the plans for these racks?
If you read posts..someone started posting on Ebay, or something....PM the OP and for a small fee he'll send you the template....i.e. support the guy that came up w/ the design...I did.
-2 cents
I did the other day and haven't recieved a reply yet.
I plan to build racks very similar to this with a few changes for legs and probably a few less spacers.
I'm curious about the particle board at the bottom. Does it make sense to leave a 1" gap below the particle board for gases to escape during an explosion? I'm just thinking, if a plug blew out or a hole opened up it would allow the gas to have an area to vent. This design could launch the tube upwards a bit, maybe... Just wondering if the question of allowing some ventilation at the bottom has come up?
Most on here would suggest that you keep the top of the bottom rails and spacers at the level of the top of the plug inside the tube. If a tube lets go it would likely do so above the level of the plug. I don't think you could leave a gap at the bottom and keep the lower rail out of the way of the expanding tube at the same time.
Why would you be considering removing "a few" of the spacers? For what it's worth, I think racks should have spacers for the same reason that the bottom rail should be below the plug, so the tube can expand and vent without hopefully scattering the adjacent tubes in the progress. You will find that others here have different opinions about whether spacers are necessary.
From your last comment, others here have different opinions... I figure this is a religious issue and that I'll split the difference... instead of a spacer every tube or no spacers, place a spacer every 4 tubes so I'll end up with 3 spacers on a 12 tube rack.
Another question, what about side spacers? In the picture, the sides and bottom are 2x4s so about 3.5" across. The DR11s I'm planning to use are roughly 2.25", I think, so you end up with .6" of play on both sides. Is that OK or do you guys put wood in there to snug the tubes up?
There was a thread on that subject recently about ripping the ends to width. Another subject that has arguments both ways. I think the plans call for the ends to be 2x3s so they are 2 1/2" across so a DR11 tube will only have ~1/8" of play total. The racks I have similar to this I made out of pressure treated lumber that I had left over from something else so I ripped them to 2 3/8" so the tubes fit in very, very snug... I think most guys leave the 2x3's as-is and live with the play in the fit of the tube.
Here's that other thread: http://www.pyrouniverse.com/forum/sh...-or-not-to-rip...
Last edited by mko1024; May 21st, 2010 at 11:31 AM. Reason: Added link to other thread.
Sorry, but I am a newb and can't pm it seems. Can you please send me the designs? Let me know if you are requiring a donation these days, happy to chip in. Sorry if I missed them in the thread. Read the whole thread and did not see them still posted.
Thanks again!
believe you need 10 posts before able to PM.
-2 cents
i would like a .pdf dwaring of these
I must say after a ot of time looking at a ot of different designs I truly think this is the best one I have seen. The flexibility is absolutely amazing.
Major kudos to an exceptional design from a newby.
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