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Thread: Ematchs

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    Default Ematchs

    I need to know the firing current that it takes to pop a commercial ematch. I am sure the information has been covered on the forum somewhere. I am building a few 24 cue sequencers to add to my current system. I will be using a 9 volt battery to power the units.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Ematchs

    Dboyett,
    Here's a link to some info. It's going to slightly depend on the manufacturer.
    http://www.electricmatch.com/product_us.html
    -Chris

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    Default Re: Ematchs

    I used to use Daveyfire e-matches, I liked them best, but have closed their doors. J-Tek seems to be the up and coming suppler of ematches for fireworks. Their specifications are:


    Resistance: 1 ohm +/- .2 ohm

    Max no fire current .3 amp

    Min all fire current .75 amp

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    Default Re: Ematchs

    Thanks for the info! it will help me out a lot.


    Does anyone have any information on other ematch manufacturer specifications??
    I wand to see how they all compare to one-other, I just want to make a system that will work with any ematch.
    Last edited by dboyett; December 13th, 2009 at 01:23 PM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Ematchs

    What kind of nine volt battery are you talking about? Please tell me not a standard alkaline 9V battery that you would use in your smoke alarm. Those batteries are not designed for this type of application. They are designed for low current long battery life. our application is high current short battery life. 9V alkaline batteries will drop as much as a volt when firing an ematch. In a pinch I wouldn't be afraid to use a 9V directly on an ematch but i would not design a system around their use. You simply don't have the margin for things to go wrong.
    I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.

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    Default Re: Ematchs

    That is a great point stuntborg. I was planing on using just an ordinary rechargeable 9v but after your explanation I will need to find something better. I was trying to keep the physical size of the sequencer down as small as I could. So what size of a battery would be optimal for my application? I am not against using an external battery if need be. My sequencers are designed to be used remotely or you have the option to wire it directly to a cue on a current system. I have incorporated a fail-safe so that I can stop the sequencer in emergency situation which is a option not seen on many of the units out there.

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    Default Re: Ematchs

    It depends on how many ematches you intend to shoot with the firing system. I have two varieties. I either shoot with 24 V or 60V. I use Gel Cell batteries generally built for use in emergency lights. They are rechargable and fairly long lasting. 24 volts you can shoot 8-10 of the J-tek ematchs depending on the length of the wire runs. 60v you can shoot a lot more obviously. Hope this helps!

    Dustin

    PS. I do have a system that I've used for small indoor shows that is based around a normal 9v battery. Of course, it's able to shoot 60v so, I run 6-9volts in series to achieve 54v. It's done MANY shows without a battery change.
    Dustin
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  8. #8

    Default Re: Ematchs

    I use 18V rechargeable power tool batteries. They serve double duty so I don't have to spend money just on batteries and since I use them regularly I don't have to worry about them being discharged. Unfortunately they aren't all that small.

    If you don't plan on running long wire runs then 12V gel cell batteries work well. Many people use these.

    Batteries designed for radio controlled cars may work well. Once again, you won 't have much distance but they are smaller and don't suffer from the drawbacks of nine volt batteries.
    I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.

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    Default Re: Ematchs

    I have wireless system I use for indoor stuff which I run off 2 x 9V ni-mh "smoke detector" type batteries (they are officially called PP3). The 2 batteries are in series so I get 18V. Admittedly we only use it for indoor stuff where we are only firing 1 or 2 e-matches at a time but I've never had a problem with it.

    BTW I can't remember the exact specs for our e-matches, but I've always worked on the theory of 1.5V @ 0.5A minimum, which I always double to at least 3V @ 1A to ensure it fires. Don't forget to account for long cable runs if you do them (I don't - we are totally wireless now and I refuse to run a wire anywhere).

    Matt

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    Default Re: Ematchs

    Quote Originally Posted by stuntborg View Post
    Batteries designed for radio controlled cars may work well. Once again, you won 't have much distance but they are smaller and don't suffer from the drawbacks of nine volt batteries.
    ive built a lot of systems with rc car batteries they work great and are easily obtainable if you need one in a hurry
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    Default Re: Ematchs

    Quote Originally Posted by indoorsoccernut View Post
    24 V or 60V.
    60 volts? Is that CD or through a battery array? Other than via CD, that would not be NFPA compliant and can be quite dangerous.
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    Default Re: Ematchs

    You might check out the Power-Sonic PS-1228 12V sealed lead acid battery inside a Serpac A42 enclosure. The enclosure is 7x5x1.6" and the battery fits tightly inside (after removing the enclosure standoffs). However, it doesn't leave a lot of room for the circuit board. I'm using this in my firing system and it works great.

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    Default Re: Ematchs

    Quote Originally Posted by pyro29 View Post
    60 volts? Is that CD or through a battery array? Other than via CD, that would not be NFPA compliant and can be quite dangerous.
    Not that I would ever use 60 volts to shoot fireworks, I cannot find where this would not be NFPA compliant.
    It just needs to be from batteries or an isolation transformer equipped A/C power supply.
    'Life should end at the grave skidding in sideways - A salute in one hand - Lit match in the other - body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming 'What a Ride!'

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    Default Re: Ematchs

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    Default Re: Ematchs

    Quote Originally Posted by Marty View Post
    Not that I would ever use 60 volts to shoot fireworks, I cannot find where this would not be NFPA compliant.
    It just needs to be from batteries or an isolation transformer equipped A/C power supply.
    Jeez, now I'll have to go look through them. I could be getting one of my neighboring states regs mixed up. Either way, "someone" had listed maximum firing voltages...I'll look...for, what I can surmise to be the safety concern of shock potential once you top 48 VDC
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    Default Re: Ematchs

    Quote Originally Posted by pyro29 View Post
    Jeez, now I'll have to go look through them. I could be getting one of my neighboring states regs mixed up. Either way, "someone" had listed maximum firing voltages...I'll look...for, what I can surmise to be the safety concern of shock potential once you top 48 VDC
    Agreed, 48 is my limit for that and the potential for damp connectors (Telco/Centronics) to pass voltage to other cues.
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    Default Re: Ematchs

    24 volts is where I am comfortable, but I agree 48 volts is absolute max.

    Telco's used 48 volts because batteries came in multple of 12 volts. 4x12 =48. The next step was 60 volts (5x12) and that was considered a bit too dangerous and unnecessary.
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    Default Re: Ematchs

    My panels are 60 volt capable just becuase that is the the resistor I put in front of the LED. Generally the panels are shot at 24 volts. However, should I have a large front, I can up the voltage to whatever I'm sure is going to shoot the show.
    Dustin
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