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iv81
May 23rd, 2006, 11:57 AM
New here.

Wondering if this tut will be useful to anyone.

http://www.flurl.com/item/Making_your_Ematch_wireless__u_139626/

The pause button may be usefull.

The above example illustrated used a steel wool with a binder. But if you need more power applied for your e-match, you can chain several 9v batteries (maybe 3) and feed one end (the ground) directly to one end of your e-match and another to the switch "C" input, apply the positive end of the battery chain to the switch "B" input, NEVER use "A" for e-matches, it's the opposite and is always on unless triggered. The receivers - and + ends should never exceed 12v so don't apply chained batteries directly to it's feed, use a separate battery.

You can also fire off several devices at different times with multi channel receivers and remotes ( see post bellow (http://www.pyrouniverse.com/forum/showpost.php?p=25819&postcount=3) ) upto 1200 feet away (depending on remote sold). They all vary in A,B and C connections so make sure you use a multi tester prior to connecting anything.

If you're inscure about somone else having ability to trigger your device at any time you can always attach an off/on switch between the battery pos wire and receiver so it will only activate reception when you turn on the switch.

Enjoy.

pyrochris
May 23rd, 2006, 01:40 PM
New here.

Wondering if this tut will be useful to anyone.

http://www.flurl.com/item/Making_your_Ematch_wireless__u_139626/

The pause button may be usefull.

The above example illustrated used a steel wool with a binder. But if you need more power applied for your e-match, you can chain several 9v batteries (maybe 3) and feed one end (the ground) directly to one end of your e-match and another to the switch "C" input, apply the positive end of the battery chain to the switch "B" input, NEVER use "A" for e-matches, it's the opposite and is always on unless triggered. The receivers - and + ends should never exceed 12v so don't apply chained batteries directly to it's feed, use a separate battery.

You can also fire off several devices at different times with multi channel receivers and remotes upto 1200 feet away (depending on remote sold). They all vary in A,B and C connections so make sure you use a multi tester prior to connecting anything.

If you're inscure about somone else having ability to trigger your device at any time you can always attach an off/on switch between the battery pos wire and receiver so it will only activate reception when you turn on the switch.

Enjoy.

The tutorial is alright, you need to explain how to connect to a battery a little better, with + and - signs for polarity. With the propper tutorial i will definately try one of the multi channel ones i have laying around!
Ok found a good picture on where to connect the battery! http://www.vectorcom.net/eBay/Images/RF2A/MU2A.jpg
WOAH! Just found a 12 channel one on ebay for 25$!!

iv81
May 23rd, 2006, 02:54 PM
Here's a diagram for 2ch unit, the same concept can also be used for anything above 2ch units.

The combined (3) 9v batteries shown here are great for setting off those hard to ignite e-matches too.

http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/1473/2chwireless7bw.th.jpg (http://img117.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2chwireless7bw.jpg)

pyrochris
May 23rd, 2006, 03:32 PM
Here's a diagram for 2ch unit, the same concept can also be used for anything above 2ch units.

The combined (3) 9v batteries shown here are great for setting off those hard to ignite e-matches too.

http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/1473/2chwireless7bw.th.jpg (http://img117.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2chwireless7bw.jpg)
Thanks! You saved me from spending alot of money on making a firing system! i ordered 2 12 CH Receivers with 1600ft distance for 45$! Also, ordered 200ft of nicrome wire along with 2 bobbins of 24 gauge wire and 50 alligator clips! total cost was like 75$! I will be posting my kit when i get it. Instead of a battery i will be using a 30ft extension cord, along with a 120V AC to 9V DC adapter! It should work great!
EDIT: Ok i just saw something i need additional batteries for each channel? The 9V input at the bottom left doesnt power the channels?

iv81
May 23rd, 2006, 04:11 PM
The standalone 9v (bottom left) powers the receiver only. It's designed to operate at 12v but I found that it works at 9v hence why I mentioned additional two AA batteries may be neccessary to power the unit. My 1ch unit worked fine (exccept the LED didn't light up whrn I triggered it)

And you can use the same chained (3) 9v batteries to ignite all the channels separately. Run one end of the ematch directly to the batteries (-) ground. The other to individual ch's C connectior. And split the (+) positive from the batery to run in individual B connector. Just as shown.

Dewey
May 23rd, 2006, 04:35 PM
This post may help you guys out:
http://www.pyrouniverse.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324&highlight=channel

pyrochris
May 23rd, 2006, 05:08 PM
The standalone 9v (bottom left) powers the receiver only. It's designed to operate at 12v but I found that it works at 9v hence why I mentioned additional two AA batteries may be neccessary to power the unit. My 1ch unit worked fine (exccept the LED didn't light up whrn I triggered it)

And you can use the same chained (3) 9v batteries to ignite all the channels separately. Run one end of the ematch directly to the batteries (-) ground. The other to individual ch's C connectior. And split the (+) positive from the batery to run in individual B connector. Just as shown.
Damn, thats going to be some work, I would need a massive power strip to fit 12 9V adapters! Any way else besides batteries?

iv81
May 23rd, 2006, 05:28 PM
Damn, thats going to be some work, would 1 9V adapter be enough for all the channels? or no,

If fired off one at a time, yes depending on your e-match. You can also do several at once if you chain them together.

iv81
May 23rd, 2006, 05:34 PM
Damn, thats going to be some work, I would need a massive power strip to fit 12 9V adapters! Any way else besides batteries?

I don't think You understood correctly. Read over the line "you can use the same chained (3) 9v batteries to ignite all the channels separately"

pyrochris
May 23rd, 2006, 08:11 PM
I don't think You understood correctly. Read over the line "you can use the same chained (3) 9v batteries to ignite all the channels separately"
So would i then be able to use a 3 9v adapter i have laying around?
Would you be able to show me a diagram on how to wire them?

iv81
May 24th, 2006, 04:20 AM
So would i then be able to use a 3 9v adapter i have laying around?
Would you be able to show me a diagram on how to wire them?

A chained (3) 9v batteries means just that. It's three 9v bateries chaned together to form 27v just as shown in the diagram for 2 ch unit firing system, the same chain consisiting of threee 9v bateries can also can be used to fire off all 12 ch individualy..

If you want me to consult you on how to construct your systm or how many batteries to use or what type of adapter., I need to know how you constrcut your e-match first usnig what materials, etc.

DennyMo
May 24th, 2006, 05:39 AM
The above example illustrated used a steel wool with a binder.
I'm interested in finding out more about your ematches, care to share your technique?

iv81
May 24th, 2006, 06:13 AM
I'm interested in finding out more about your ematches, care to share your technique?

The steel wool I used was done only for demonstration to prevent a bigger ignition. In practice a nichrome wire should be considered for anything. There's a good tutorial done by UN http://www.unitednuclear.com/wire.htm on electric matches.

I also found the single strands in the IDE cables are thin enough to be used with that method. You can take apart an old floppy or IDE data cable and use a single wire inside each guage to test using a 9v battery. If it turns red hot and burns then it's good enough for e-matches.

DennyMo
May 24th, 2006, 08:41 AM
Thanks. I'm aware of the nichrome techniques, but was intrigued by your use of steel wool. JoeRatman posted a technique recently using nichrome and quick visco, incredibly simple.

Dewey
May 24th, 2006, 08:59 AM
There's a good tutorial done by UN http://www.unitednuclear.com/wire.htm on electric matches.

If anyone uses this method and is using 12/24 volts make sure to increase the amount of nichrome you run though the fuse to about 3/8". More nichrome=more resistance=more time before nichrome breaks.
In the picture there is not enough nichrome used IMO. The bigger batteries will put out alot of amerage and the nichrome may break before ignition.
I have never had a failed ignition with this method.

The igniters in the picture should work for low voltage/low amperage setups.
When I made igniters with as little gap as possible I had ignition with 4 AA's instantly.

pyrochris
May 24th, 2006, 01:35 PM
I don't think You understood correctly. Read over the line "you can use the same chained (3) 9v batteries to ignite all the channels separately"
ok iv81, I am using a 12 channel system, how many batteries would i need to power it and at what voltage? I would like to use battery packs, but am confused on how to wire a 12 channel system. I donot plan on using ematch since you need a BATFE permit for it, so i will be using nicrome wire instead.

Dewey
May 24th, 2006, 01:46 PM
This post may help you guys out:
http://www.pyrouniverse.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324&highlight=channel

Pyrochris have you read this post...everything you need to know about making a system with the 12 ch remote board should be covered.

iv81
May 25th, 2006, 04:32 PM
ok iv81, I am using a 12 channel system, how many batteries would i need to power it and at what voltage? I would like to use battery packs, but am confused on how to wire a 12 channel system. I donot plan on using ematch since you need a BATFE permit for it, so i will be using nicrome wire instead.

Ok, all you need are four 9 volt batteries, 1 by itself to power the receiver and 3 of them chained together and positively wired to all individual channels to ignite the nichrome on command. Since I just found out that a 12 ch systm has different asignments to it's A B C or 1 2 3 connectors depending on the source, I need you to tell me which combination is Normaly Closed or Normaly Open before I can make up a diagram.

pyrochris
May 25th, 2006, 04:46 PM
Ok, all you need are four 9 volt batteries, 1 by itself to power the receiver and 3 of them chained together and positively wired to all individual channels to ignite the nichrome on command. Since I just found out that a 12 ch systm has different asignments to it's A B C or 1 2 3 connectors depending on the source, I need you to tell me which combination is Normaly Closed or Normaly Open before I can make up a diagram.
Ok, here you go, exact receiver one i ordered!
http://www.vectorcom.net/eBay/Images/RF12A/MU12As.jpg

DennyMo
May 25th, 2006, 05:22 PM
This schematic is buried in the thread Deweycoon has been recommending to you, wire it up like this and you'll be fine:
(Thanks to johnnyboomboom for putting this together!)
http://www.pyroreview.com/gallery/data/556/67712v_12cue_RF_Slat_rev3.jpg
http://www.pyroreview.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/556

iv81
May 25th, 2006, 05:55 PM
Ok the 12 ch abc signments seem to be the opposite from 1 or 2 ch units but I would strongly suggest you to do the testing first with a multitester before attaching the works to confirm that the NC and NO are properly labeled, I've seen a mistake on one of sellers pictures before when they sold the 12 ch unit that looked exacly like yours and it had different asignments. "Normaly Open" means off unless on and that's what were going to use. With the way your image is labled I'm including a diagram of how to set everything up. Use whatever amount of wire you need as three combined 9 v batteries (27 volts) is more than enough to set off nichrome with any length used.

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/2270/12chifabisopen8ce.th.jpg (http://img224.imageshack.us/my.php?image=12chifabisopen8ce.jpg)

Edit: and as DennyMo pointed out in the diagram he posted, you can add an on/off switch between either the 12v or the 27v feed or both for safety reasons. Something like this will do. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062494&cp=&origkw=switch+on+off&kw=switch+on+off&parentPage=search

pyrochris
May 25th, 2006, 06:13 PM
Ok the 12 ch abc signments seem to be the opposite from 1 or 2 ch units but I would strongly suggest you to do the testing first with a multitester before attaching the works to confirm that the NC and NO are properly labeled, I've seen a mistake on one of sellers pictures before when they sold the 12 ch unit that looked exacly like yours and it had different asignments. "Normaly Open" means off unless on and that's what were going to use. With the way your image is labled I'm including a diagram of how to set everything up. Use whatever amount of wire you need as three combined 9 v batteries (27 volts) is more than enough to set off nichrome with any length used.

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/2270/12chifabisopen8ce.th.jpg (http://img224.imageshack.us/my.php?image=12chifabisopen8ce.jpg)

Edit: and as DennyMo pointed out in the diagram he posted, you can add an on/off switch between either the 12v or the 27v feed or both for safety reasons. Something like this will do. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062494&cp=&origkw=switch+on+off&kw=switch+on+off&parentPage=searchThanks for the wire tutorial! For the 27v feed, what wire is recommended to use? 20ga? or less?

iv81
May 25th, 2006, 06:30 PM
Thanks for the wire tutorial! For the 27v feed, what wire is recommended to use? 20ga? or less? 20 should be fine.

iv81
May 25th, 2006, 06:37 PM
You can also decrease the number of 9volt batteries you use to just two or one if it's only to set off nichrome.

pyrochris
May 25th, 2006, 07:13 PM
You can also decrease the number of 9volt batteries you use to just two or one if it's only to set off nichrome.
i will probably end up using 2 9v adapters to run this from my case. thanks again!

iv81
May 25th, 2006, 07:35 PM
i will probably end up using 2 9v adapters to run this from my case. thanks again!

If you're going to use an adapter (not a battery) then you can use just one. BTW, what's the amperage on the adapter, I suggest using something with 1 or 2.

pyrochris
May 25th, 2006, 07:58 PM
If you're going to use an adapter (not a battery) then you can use just one. BTW, what's the amperage on the adapter, I suggest using something with 1 or 2.
hrmm, i guess i need to buy a new adapter then! these adapters only run at 400mA each. :(
EDIT: Ok the shack has some adapters with 1200mA, would that be enough amperage for these?

Dewey
May 25th, 2006, 08:05 PM
iv81, pyrochris, the rest of us are wondering why you don't just by a 12 volt battery like all the rest of us are using.
If you need more power buy 2 and make it 24 volts.

pyrochris
May 25th, 2006, 08:07 PM
iv81, pyrochris, the rest of us are wondering why you don't just by a 12 volt battery like all the rest of us are using.
If you need more power buy 2 and make it 24 volts.
Because, i dont like following the crowd, i like making things differently than others, so mine isn't the same as everyone elses. I already have everything planned out how i want to set it up, and dont want to be carrying around a 15lb battery.

iv81
May 25th, 2006, 08:17 PM
hrmm, i guess i need to buy a new adapter then! these adapters only run at 400mA each. :(
EDIT: Ok the shack some adapters with 1200mA, would that be enough amperage for these?

You can test your existing adapter if the nichrome will burn if shorted. If not then you can get the 1200 mA one.

Dewey
May 25th, 2006, 08:18 PM
pyrochris,When you start using your 9 volt batterys you will find out what we already know....it takes power on a large front to ignite 3,4,5,6 nichrome igniters at once on about 150 ft. of wire.

iv81
May 25th, 2006, 08:23 PM
iv81, pyrochris, the rest of us are wondering why you don't just by a 12 volt battery like all the rest of us are using.
If you need more power buy 2 and make it 24 volts.

Which 12v are you talking about, these little ones?..

http://www.chbatterieswholesale.com/catalog/images/large/remote-control-batteries-GP-23A.jpg

Or the big 12v car or scooter batteries? As PyroChris pointed out, they're a bit heavy for such a simple load.

I guess the small ones that I linked above can work for few runs but they're not readily available in many stores as opposed to 9v and 1.5 that I've put together in my diagram to make 12v.

iv81
May 25th, 2006, 08:24 PM
pyrochris,When you start using your 9 volt batterys you will find out what we already know....it takes power on a large front to ignite 3,4,5,6 nichrome igniters at once on about 150 ft. of wire.

As he said he's going to use adapters. I'm assuming 120v to 9v or 12v adapters. Those should work fine for nichrome as it can even ignite at under 5v.

Dewey
May 25th, 2006, 08:28 PM
Which 12v are you talking about, these little ones?..

http://www.chbatterieswholesale.com/catalog/images/large/remote-control-batteries-GP-23A.jpg

Or the big 12v car or scooter batteries? As PyroChris pointed out, they're a bit heavy for such a simple load.

I guess the small ones that I linked above can work for few runs but they're not readily available in many stores as opposed to 9v and 1.5 that I've put together in my diagram to make 12v.
This is the battery alot of people are using... they are not that heavy.
I don't want to put your ideas down guys but alot of people use these for a reason, more power.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RBC2-New-SLA-Battery-12-Volt-7-ah-APC_W0QQitemZ8816973181QQcategoryZ44963QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

iv81
May 25th, 2006, 08:35 PM
This is the battery alot of people are using... they are not that heavy.
I don't want to put your ideas down guys but alot of people use these for a reason, more power.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RBC2-New-SLA-Battery-12-Volt-7-ah-APC_W0QQitemZ8816973181QQcategoryZ44963QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

In terms of load, I agree, they can be of good use if you're shooting off hundreds of works, but if it's only for 12 nichrome matches, is it really neccessary?.. :rolleyes:

I have two 12v-12APH batteries I took apart from a 280 watt scooter. Those are pretty heavy to carry around. And the use of an adpter as pyrochris mentioned is practicaly an unlimmeted amount of power given that it's always on.

Dewey
May 25th, 2006, 08:40 PM
As he said he's going to use adapters. I'm assuming 120v to 9v or 12v adapters. Those should work fine for nichrome as it can even ignite at under 5v.

So you will be close to a 120 volt power source?
I use a 200 ft fall out zone...there is no electicity and thats alot of drop cords.
Oh and about 40 igniters off the 12 cues would make a difference in the power that is needed.
Have fun building your systems guys.

pyrochris
May 25th, 2006, 08:48 PM
So you will be close to a 120 volt power source?
I use a 200 ft fall out zone...there is no electicity and thats alot of drop cords.
Oh and about 40 igniters off the 12 cues would make a difference in the power that is needed.
Have fun building your systems guys.
My brothers back yard is about 3 acres long and has an electrical box about 20-30ft away from my shoot area, using 9v adapters is good because i have an unlimited amount of power, and is easy to carry around as to a 6lb battery that i will use once a year. I am happy that you are helping us out and all, thanks for your help!

iv81
May 25th, 2006, 09:55 PM
By the way, forgot to mention this but when you set them off, make sure to hold the button on the remote down for a few seconds untill it goes off, not just press it and release. The conductor (nichrome) needs to heat up and only then will it do anything to the setup.

DennyMo
May 26th, 2006, 04:51 AM
My brothers back yard is about 3 acres long and has an electrical box about 20-30ft away from my shoot area, using 9v adapters is good because i have an unlimited amount of power, and is easy to carry around as to a 6lb battery that i will use once a year. I am happy that you are helping us out and all, thanks for your help!
Ok, sounds like you're the lucky exception, and using AC should suit you just fine. Is that the only site you'll be shooting fireworks? If not, then you might want to wire up your box so you have the option of using an external battery. I use 12V batterys for UPS's, much smaller/lighter.

pyrochris
May 26th, 2006, 12:20 PM
Ok, sounds like you're the lucky exception, and using AC should suit you just fine. Is that the only site you'll be shooting fireworks? If not, then you might want to wire up your box so you have the option of using an external battery. I use 12V batterys for UPS's, much smaller/lighter.
Yes, thats the only site i will be shooting, I might get a battery as a last option.