I'm thinking that my rough sketch is adequate in terms of diode placement on the slat. In one of my previous posts where someone replied it was mentioned that I need diodes on each cue of my slat. I'm still largely confused about the construction of my firing system as a whole but I'm getting there.
In the attached picture I've outlined where the diodes are to be ( outlined line reference point A). Is this correct?
This also assumes that the band on the diodes is facing down
I've only drawn one positive wire, but the others will be wired in a similar manner for the 16 cues.
Thanks
http://members.cox.net/dfluke/images/slat_diode_web.gif
JoeRatman
April 22nd, 2006, 10:03 AM
First of all, you only need a diode on each cue, if you have a multi-ground system. I am having a hard time reading your diagram because it is so light colored, so I am not sure if you have multi-ground or not.
Secondly, in your diagram you have the diodes such that the power flows from the cue and through a diode and then it continues on through the other diodes of the other cues. This is not correct. There is a small voltage drop every time you go through a diode. The cue at the top of the diagram has to go through four diodes with a voltage drop at each. It will be harder to fire that cue versus the one at the bottom of the diagram. You want each diode to from each cue to go to a common ground wire, so each cue only passes through one diode.
dfluke
April 22nd, 2006, 04:24 PM
Yes it is multi ground. I didn't fill in all the wires. Hopefully this version is a little better, and I sharpened up the other one posted previously.
Is this correct?
I'm not sure what a cue is, or if this setup will work.
http://members.cox.net/dfluke/images/slat_diode2_web.gif
Would anyone recommend a way to wire this up? I could use those twist on deals, as I have plenty of those. I know they make these devices for telco's that simply "snap in" to wiring to splice it. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? They look like little buttons.
I'm sure I'll figure a lot of this stuff out when I'm actually building this thing, I just can't wait to get started.
Thanks Joe for the graphic!
JoeRatman
April 24th, 2006, 07:47 AM
If your soldering skills are "primitive" like mine, the twist connectors work fine. My whole firing panel was made using twist connectors or attaching wires to terminal block screws. There is not one drop of solder in it. It has held together just fine. On the other hand, I know people who are much better at soldering than me and they would not even consider using twist connectors.
cjurczak
November 9th, 2006, 07:37 PM
I would highly reccomend solding...you can even get some perf PCB's that will make it easy to mount all your diodes, etc...Personally I have the equipment to etch my own PCB's in our kitchen...but thats alittle overkill for this project...
pyroguy
November 10th, 2006, 05:59 AM
If your soldering skills are "primitive" like mine, the twist connectors work fine. My whole firing panel was made using twist connectors or attaching wires to terminal block screws. There is not one drop of solder in it. It has held together just fine. On the other hand, I know people who are much better at soldering than me and they would not even consider using twist connectors.
LOL...I'm a soldering kind of guy. What I would do is clip the diodes short, solder them in-line, then heat shrink over the top. That's what I do with all of my pin-fired boards. You can get heat-shrink that matches your wire color...just make sure you put the Diode going the right direction, cause you won't be able to see it later.
If you don't want to do that, I would encourage you to check out the pre-printed PCB project boards at Radio Shack. I've used them for several prototypes. Sure, you have to conform your circuit to thier board, but often times it looks nicer in the end.
If you DO decide to solder, I have a couple tips.
1. Pick up a GOOD 40W soldering iron, not one of those Weller Guns. (I've tried using them in the pas, and never can get them to work). Make sure your tip is 1/4" diameter or smaller.
2. Pick up thin solder from Radio Shack. NEVER use plumbers solder for pipes from Home Depot, Lowes, etc...your iron will never get hot enough to melt it.
3. Get an Iron holder. Mine has a "spring" looking device to hold the iron when you're not using it and a little sponge on the bottom that you can wet, and roll your iron on when it gets dirty.
4. Optional: Get Tip Cleaner compound. This keeps your tip "tinned" and works very well.
Also, when soldering 2 pieces together, always "tin" both pieces before attempting to solder. Tinning means to heat one, apply solder to get it to look silver. Think of it as Primer when painting.
Honestly, I used to be in the same position as many of you are with soldering. Now, I am pretty good, but it does take practice.
JoeRatman
November 10th, 2006, 10:26 AM
I did a lot of soldering with my wireless system. I agree with many of PyroGuy's comments.
I went and got a 15W soldering pencil with a very thin tip. This made it much easier to solder small items. These was also less concern about getting a resistor, diode, LED or other component too hot or even unsoldering some previous joint.
Yes, get decent quality solder. I use the lead-free silver bearing solder (96/4), 0.032 diameter. It was worth it.
Ditto on the iron holder. Mine did not have a sponge, but I just grabbed one from the closet and it worked fine for cleaning the tip.
I also got a kit of soldering tools. It had a spring loaded heat sink, a small wire brush, a tool that could hold a wire while you soldered it, some tools that looked like dentist picks. Also a desoldering tool (bulb) is useful. You heat the joint and this tool will suck the solder off when it is warm.
Even though my solder skills were limited before this, having the right tools and equipment made the task go faster, easier and I ended up with high quality joints. I no longer dislike soldering but find it rather enjoyable experience.
cjurczak
November 10th, 2006, 02:05 PM
As far as soldering irons go, I am a big fan of the Weller WES31...I have a selection of different tips for it, and it has adjustable heat...so if I'm solding some wires together I can crank the heat, but if I'm soldering small pins on a PCB and I dial it down...Also, a common mistake when soldering IC's and other small electronic components, is they have a limit how much heat they can take...whether that heat be from operation, or from soldering the component in place...
Hfireworks
November 14th, 2006, 12:07 PM
Also, if you are worried about melting switchs, or getting your componets too hot use heat sinks to draw the heat from the wires such as clips, pliers, clamps, anything between your solder point and your electronic componet.
MNPyro
November 14th, 2006, 03:19 PM
Also, if you are worried about melting switchs, or getting your componets too hot use heat sinks to draw the heat from the wires such as clips, pliers, clamps, anything between your solder point and your electronic componet.
Very wise advice, I usually just use alligator clips that are attached to a wire(used for something else) and just clip them on "in front" of whatever I am protecting. And generally, when I am soldering, I am over precautious and put the clips on for every solder, unless there are no worry pieces.
MNPyro
P.S. Joe, I finally got my system fixed, go me! ;) Damn LEDs and their poles...haha
JoeRatman
November 14th, 2006, 04:09 PM
P.S. Joe, I finally got my system fixed, go me! Damn LEDs and their poles...haha